Apparatus for permanently waving hair



Patented Jan. 16, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE p amsn p maneras Foamummy wavmo Ralph M. Keele, San Francisco, Calif., assigner, by directand meine assignments, to Keelmo Co., San Francisco, Calif., acorporation of California Application May 16, 1936, Serial Noelml23Clailns.

This invention relates to an apparatus for socalled "permanent" wavinghair on the human head, and particularly pertains to an improvedapparatus for practicing what is known as the Croquignole method ofpermanent" waving.

In prior Croquignole methods of waving hair, the hair is treated with asoftening solution and is then divided into flat strands and a protectorpad and clamp is applied to the base of each `strand closely adjacent tothe scalp to protect the scalp and to hold the strand lor furthertreatment. Each strand oi' hair is then wound flatwise from its free endto the clamp on a curler spindle which is then usually connected withthe clamp and turned to place the hair under tension. A moisture padwith an outer impervious cover is then wrapped over the woundstrand,'and heat is applied thereto to a degree sunlcient to vaporizethe moisture and cause it to penetrate the wound strand and `eect thewave. When the heat is to be generated electrically, a heater embodyingelectrical heating elements is applied over the wrapped hair to applyheat thereto. When the heat is generated by exothermie reaction, theexothermic material is in the form of a pad and is wrapped about thewound strand and the whole is enclosed in a housing usually termedheater.

The process of waving hair and apparatus for practicing it justdescribed is the most commonly employed and has a number oishortcomings. These shortcomings are principally due to the provisionof' the pads and clamps which, due to their, length and thickness,obviously prevent thefwave from being spaced a uniform short distancefrom the scalp. Further, the application oi such protector pads andclamps and the subsequent application of moisture wrappers andexothermic pads consumes considerable of the operator's time, and theweight thereof on the head adds to the discomfort of the wavingoperations.

It is the principal object of my present invention to provide animprovedand highly efiicient apparatus for use in practicing theCroquignole method of permanent" waving, which apparatus eiiects asuperior form oi wave and overcomes the shortcomings of the apparatusheretofore employed. in that it simplifies the operations required toeffect a wave so as to minimize the time required to wave a head ofhair, permits the application of a greater number of curlers to beapplied to a head of hair than can be applied by use of prior methodsand apparatus so that a wave may be produced which will be uniformlyspaced and comparatively close to the scalp, and which apparatus reducesthe weight:

applied to the head so as to reduce the discomfort of the wavingoperations.

One form which the invention may assume is exempliiied in the followingdescription and illustrated by way of example in the accompanyingdrawing, in which:

f Fig. l is a perspective view of a heater unit embodying the preferredform ci my invention.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view oi the casing portion oi the heater unit.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged transverse sectional view through the heater unittaken on line III-III of Fla'. 4.

ll'lg. 4 is an enlarged central longitudinal section through the heaterunit taken on line IV-IV ing drawing, I0 indicates a heater unit formingthe major part of the apparatus constituting the subject matter of myinvention. This heater unit includes a hollow casing Il. most clearlyillustrated in Figs. 2 and `3, which is substantially rectangular inoutline with a thickness somewhat less than its width. The marginal sideedges of this casing il are senil-cylindrical and the curvature of boththe exterior and interior of such edges is carried out as illustrated togive the eii'ect of two hollow cylinders arranged withtheir axesparallel and with their adjacent side walls intersecting along a linewhich is at a distance from the centers of said cylinders which is justslightly less than half the diameter of the cylinders. substantiallycylindrical and elongated heating chamber l2 and a substantiallycylindrical and elongated curling chamber Il, which chambers arearranged side by side in parallelism and in direct communication witheach other through the elongated narrowed opening i6 between them.

The end walls it of the casing are substantially iiat although they moldinto the marginal edges at one side of the casing as indicated. The endwalls and the side walls o! the casing Il are integrally formed oi'resilient vulcanized rubber.

Thus, the interior of said casing forms a` Each Iof the end walls isformed with a circular opening I1, which openings are in axial alignmentand disposed concentric with relation to the curling chamber Il. Betweenthese openings and the adjacent marginal edges of the casing, the endwalls are centrally divided as at Il and said adjacent marginal edge iscorrespondingly centrally and longitudinally divided so that theportions of the casing at opposite sides of the divi- 5 5 as 't sionconstitutes two complemental clamping lips Ia and IIb, which may beseparated in a direction at right angles to the axis of the curlerchamber so that the casing may be fitted over a curler spindle as willbe hereinafter described.

The casing` l l ofthe heater unit is enclosed in. a heater unit framelsfwhich comprises two com-- plementairigid jawsections 20, which arespaced apart to receive the casing Il therebetween. These jaws arepreferably formed` of pressed sheet metal or molded Bakelite, oraTflikesubstance-.ahaving sufilcent strength and rigidity, and are of aformation that they snugly. sides of the casing as illustrilitfel u L nof the casing l I opposite the clampingslig the jaw sections 20 of theframe are each formed with a projecting grip member;I ,211,31 locatedsubstantially midway betw'fe-th the Junction, between themg me bers, Zuland inflamed` complemetar am hinged togetherV to karticulate complementaconnecting mansffe'fofmedo these inturned edges and in 'the"grooves" toformv .a detachable .connectionbetween the lips Aand"`jaw,'s`,ectioris.v connection'- vis 'such "that 'when a thejawsectlonsare relatively moved; the clamp? ing lips pfy the casing willbe moved inuni'sfn therewith. Consequentlyjby"moving'the twofgrip l .membe'rsj2i`toward eachother, theclamping lips o "the"casing"will be"spread*ap`art'Suilicie'ntlyito "eriable therasingfto' be positioned-overa v w v jperforatedsheetof metal foil; overwhichjfoil is 4Spring"means y23 isprovided'between the "grip j members/2Ifvvhichv 'normallytends torriaihtainy the clampingfli'ps 'of 'the casing inlarnpinigrie?V lationthroughthe' medium, of course,l of f the l weer; l.

rigid iawsectio'ns zu.

so that fthe` clamping flips I8a` and'l'BUoi the casing I l. andthe'spacerv clamping 'edges125 'will both tightly grip. la strandof hairregardless Tof whether' the lthicl'iness,of thestrand of hair'is'.greater'at'the point Wherefit is gripped' by the' spacer clamp thanat'the point 'wher' itis grippedj by the.,` clamping ylips of'jth'e'casing `I Il For use in lconnection fith this heater uniti` i curler hasbeen ""thelcasing Il. site ends of the jaw sections. Substantiallwiat(gm At,,thejouterside'of'each `j'aw'section 20 AIl :providea'spac'erclamp member 2l f ormedof sheet materiau 30:, suitable'qualities, which 'spacer ciampi' members lie closely adjacent totheouter' surj-l facsjpf the jaws 20 and which extendoutwardlyf a `spacedvdistance from'theinturned edges .of the f Jjaw members 2li. 'Atthispoint thespacerclamp members are "inturned to provide clamping edges'25,whi ch are arranged parallel to and at a "spaced f distance outwardlyfrom the clamping lips of theA Casing'l It Willbe'iioticed thatthe'l'ampng` l edgesl 2 5 of the Spacer clamp meinbers are pro-fYv*vided with detachable rubber covers as illustrated',

The spacer clamp members are slightly resilient curling surface thespindle is formed with bearing pins!! which are reduced in diameterrelative to the end of the adjacent curling surface. The diameterofthese bearing pins 28 is just slightly greater than the Icircularopenings I1 formed `in the end walls of the casing, so that whenthecasing,lif is arranged over'the curler, the 'edges of the circularopenings y'I1 /will register with the bearing pins 28 and yieldably gripthem s' as to maintain the curler concentrically within .the-.curlingchamber and prevent the curler from lrotating. It should be stated thatthis yieldable vgripping actionbetween the edges of the openings.; Iland the bearing pins 28 enables the curler., to be turned' by manuallygripping one end thereon to takeup anyfslack in the hair after the y vpositioned and gripped within o Pivoted at one end to the curlingsurface of the spindle 26 is a clamping tongue 29 arranged to "j lieclosely'adjacent tothe curling surface of the l' curler spindle toenable theend of va strand of hair tov be vclamped to' the spindle ningof the`winding operation."Y

I contemplate 'using heat generated by'chemical react-ion within-theheating chamber to eiect thelpermanency of the'wave. yFor this purpose Iemploy the type of curlerv spindle shown in Fig. 4 whichis'longitudinally bored and portsv 26a ex'- at the begintend fromthis`bore ythrough the curlingsurface to enablehot *vapr's topass fromwithin` the casing through-thecurlerV spindle,` which expedites j' theheating ko fthe curler spindle and equalize's- E the-heat'throughoutthewound hair.

To generate heat byY chemical reaction; I` provide-an exothermic heatingelement 3| which isa Vcylindrical cartridge oialength and diameter thatit-may be-snugly fitted within the heating chamber'of the casing.Ivprefer that this chem v ical heating element consist of a core ofsuitable' ch'er'nicalpsuch a'scalcium oxide, wrapped inV al alayerofrabsorbent material, the: same in turn being enclosed inacover`impervious to moisture.

isdipp'ed-in fluid and placed in the heating chamber of the casing. Thereaction resulting from the application of moisture to thecalcium oxideory charge generates sufiic-ient heat within-the casing to effect thepermanency of thewave.

In operation of my apparatus, it is constructed substantially asillustrated and described. 'I'he" hair is treated with the propersolution, the strength -of which determines'thetightness of the wave;vThe hair is then dividedinto strands and each strand is wound on acurler26 from its outer end to the scalp. A` heating unitis then appliedcverthe 'curler'with the circularopenings I1 receiving the-bearing pins28 andsecuring the curler with the'hair Wound'the'reon concentricallywithin the curling chamber of the casing'l I. The exothermicheatin'gelement dipped inthe same solution that the hair wastreatedfwith wouldV firstbe-4 inserted into 4the heating chamberv of thecasing. l i

Itis obvious "that as soon as thev heating unit is applied 'to thecurler that the strand will be tightly'clamped just beneath' thecurlerby the clamping lips ofthe casing Il urged toward each other bythe spring-pressed jaws comprisingV the frame of the unit.v Likewise,the spacer clamping edges 25 will tightly grip the strand closely adja'-cent'tothe scalp, maintaining'a spacing between the scalp and theclamping lipsVr of the casing.v

2,187,l7.8 f u This `provides a double seal topreventany escaping hotvapors iromcontacting the.. 'scalp`.l

eliminated, thus eiecting a considerable saving* of the operators time;vLikewise, Iby eliminating theuse otprotector `clamps and pads',.thestrands` of hairlarenot. bunched at thescaip so thatthe` wave will lLbefspaceda vuniformly close, distance to the scalp,1thus giving a imore.natural appear-1j anceandeifect.` Y'

`unittmvitl'lcits clamping mediurnsUwillbeA conf sideraiolyV lighterr inweight than the; combined welghts,..ofiprior heaters;clamps andprotector, pads, consequently lessenna` the discomiiture ofthefpermanentlfwaving operations.,y V c Aftentheheating unlthasbeen-applied tothe curler as previously .doscribed, rthe `curler maybeslightlyturned yby manually grippingonecf the t headszthereon to` take`up anyslack on the hair wound thereon. `TheyieldinggrippingAactiorrbe 'ntween the vedges of theopenings ,ifi :and the bear; ins pinsllpnn the`curltrswill` maintain the curler in a setwposition.l

The heat generated is,"oncoursefsunicient tot vaporizethe `moisture.:and causes thev hot vapors to passthrough `the hairinto'the,',curle'r..J 'lliis` elementwill, of course, rise to anequivalent temperature so'fthat the heat vapplied will be' .unifo'rn'nhthus eii'ecting an excellenty wave.

The heater. unav is,V lfr on unal "ure same is` approximately cooL.at'whlch time tliefl'xilr` has been properlyfsteamedlf heater is then're'` l moved by gripping thev grip members and `spreadfl ing thejawinembersof. the frame `I'he curler is thenunwoundand'detached"frontiy the hair vand t 4`'the wave is ready vfor setting.

ofhair. y Y ,-v Y y From the foregoing/itis obvious thatI have method oipermanent waving, by'whichapparatus I am enabled top'roducea'superiorform of virave.4 Likewise, it is `appa'rentthat'my im'- provedapparatusovercomes the sl'iortcoi'ningsfof` prior apparatus heretoforeemployed in that it y reduces and simplifies the operationsrequired toeffect such a `wave and therefore minimizes the time required to wave ahead ofvhair.

Furthenl desreto point out that by applied by use of priormethods-andapparatus so that the wave which I produce willbe closelyanduniformly spaced .from the scalp. y y e.

Further. by use of my apparatus the weight on the'head is less than theweight-applied by prior -methods, and consequently minimizes thediscom-V fort of the permanent waving. operations:

While I have shown `thepreferred form of 4my apparatus, it is*` to be`understood that variousy changes may be made in its construction; bythose Having thus describedy invention, whatl I` claim and vdesire tosecure by yLetters Patent is: i

l. A hair waving apparatus comprising a heater element `removably.chamber.

f with the curling chamber.

the use of mylapparatuaa greater number of curlers mayv be appliedA toagiven head of hair than couldv be` :,rial,` and Aaneirothermic heating,element rernov-` ,ablylztting withinsaid heating chamber.-` Said itvelement being1insertable i into fsaid. ci'wimberyf` t throughfsaiddivision of the curling chamber. t It .should also be pointed out 'lthat .rnyfheatingi 2.y Ahalr waving apparatus comprising a heater i pairof .opposed'clampinglips .at one side oflsaid .Y :chamberxwhich maybespread ,apartfto open the curling chamber` fortheinsertlon of a curlerspin'- ttdle` fsaidfcasing`- being; formed i 0f resilientmatef y, rial,apair of; articulatelyzconnected rlgid..jaw

members embracing said caslngyand connected thereto atisaid lips landnormallyurgingsaid lips i. l

3. `A hair waving apparatus comprising a lieater` unit including alhollow .casing, vthe linterior .oi

t toward eachy other, and `angexotl'iermic heating. .i

insertable iny said heating` which forms fzspaced communicatingheating'` chamber and a curling chamber, said casing-havf, .t ingaligned openings at oppositeends o@ said curlr ing l chamber andksubstantially` centrally thereof, anda curler` spindle having endsl`adaainted to be received in said, Openings whereby it `will, be,supported coaxially withinsaid chamben and an exothermicheating `elementremovably` ilttingthe n t Y t. v interior-,of saiduheating chamberandenclosed Here also an operation is'savedin ythat the cperator neednotremove any""clamps or"` protectors t from the head,consequentlyexpediting theentirel i operation f'giving a permanentwaveto ahead f thereby except r.thatlit is in opencornrnunication 4. Ahair vwavingpparatus comprising a heater unit including a hollow.casing, the interionof which yeasingl forms a heating chamber 'and acurling chamber lying side by side in parallelism and indirectrcommunication, saidcasing having alignedopenings at opposite-endsofthe curling f chamber, a curler spindle having ends adaptedto bereceived in said openings whereby thecurler will besupportedsubstantiallycoaxiallyv within saidhcurling'chamber,said-spindle having vapor conveying passages*tl'ieret-hrough,` and anexo-v thermic heating element disposed in saidy heating chamber. f

unitincluding a,ho1lowca,sing, the `interior of which forms an elongatedheating chamberand y an `elongated curling` chambery arranged side by 1side in parallelism and indirect communication,

said casing having alignedopenings-in its kencls` substantiallycoairiaily of said curling` chamber, a

bored curler spindle having ends adaptedto be i yieldingly gripped `insaid openings, whereby it will be supported coaxially within saidcurlingchamber, said spindle havingportslextending radially'from said. borethrough saidfspindle, said casing being divided `longitudirially oi' thecurling chamber `at the side thereof ,opposite the heating. 7

chamber'forming a pair `of clampingflipswhich` may be spread `apartto`permit inser'tiomof. said curler ,spindle,and` an exothermic heatingcar.-` tridge removablyiitting said` heating chamber.` i

`6. A hair waving apparatus comprising a heater unit includinga hollowcasing formed of molded .5.` A hair waving apparatus comprising a heatersaid'c'asingat opposite sides oi' said vdivision to open said-Yc'aslng-wherebythe same may be are raged-foyeria' wound strand of hair on saidspindie; andan 'exothermic heating. element adapted to beinsrtedthroughsaid division and into said heatin vchaix'iber prior tothe arranging ofthe casing rfa wound strand of hair on the curler spindle'.`-y

7'; Apparatus for use in permanent waving, in conjunction with-a` curlerupon which a strand of hair 'is'wound, saidapparatus comprising a jacketformed of resilient rubber, and including y,two opposed flexible wallscapable of flexing to facilitate#application of the jacketsabout thecurler, a holder including two opposed relatively movable -i'nembersnormally urged together andy attached to the exible walls ofthe jacket,said jacket being so dimensioned that a compartment is formed thereinextending longitudinally of the curler and the one side of the same, anda chemical heater packet removably disposed within said v compartmentand adapted to be moistened to v.generate steam.l l

8;'In apparatusior-use in permanent hair waving, inconjunction with aprotector which is clamped about a strand of hair and a curler' which isycarried by the protector and parallel thereto, a one-piece jacketformed entirely oi' resilient-rubber adapted to removably embrace thecurler'with the ends of the curler extend-k ing from the ends of thejacket, the jacket having two opposed longitudinal edges adapted to beinterposed betweenthe curler and the protector on opposite sides of thehair strand extending irom the protector to the curler, whereby thejacket is sealed about the curler to form a steam chamber, *said jacket,onthat side of the curler `remote from thev protector, being dimensionedto form an interior compartment extending parallel to the curler andadjacent one side of the same, and a chemical heater Ypacket removablydisposed within said jacket and adapted to be moistened to generatesteam.

' 9. In hair waving apparatus, a jacket formed with two opposed flexiblewalls formed of resilient rubber and adapted to be spread apart, saidjacket being adapted to be clipped over a curler on which hair is wound,said jacket being dimensionedto form a compartment extendinglongitudinally of the curler and adjacent one side of the same, saidcompartment being closed by end walls formed integral with the sidewalls, and a chemical heaterpacket removably disposed Within saidcompartment, said packet being retained within said compartment by theresiliency of said walls, and forming a generator o steam whenmoistened, said jacket serving to direct steam evolved from the packetabout the Wound hair.`

l0. Apparatus for use in permanent hair waving in conjunction with acurler upon which a strand 'of hair is wound, comprising a jacket formedof resilient rubber, and including two 'opposed flexible' walls capableof'iiexing to facilitate application of the jacket about the curler,said jacket being so formed, that when applied to the curler, acompartment is formed extending longitudinally of the curler and ,alongone side of the same, the ends of said compartment being closed, thelower side of said compartment being in communication with that portionof the jacket occupied by a curler, and a chemical heater packetremovably disposed withthereof, and a curler spindle having ends adapt--ed to 4be received in said openings whereby it will be supportedcoaxially within said chamber. l2. A hair waving apparatus comprising aheater unit including a hollow casing, the interior thereof forming anelongatedl curling chamber, said casing having aligned openings atopposite ends of said chamber andy substantially coaxially thereof, acurler spindle having ends adapted to be received in said openingswhereby it will be supported coaxially within said chamber, said casingbeing divided longitudinally of said curling chamber and centrally ofsaid openings whereby the portions of said casing on opposite sides oi'the division may be spread apart to enable insertion o! said curlerspindle, a pair of articulately connected rigid jaw members embracingsaid casing and connected therewith at opposite sides of said divisionthereof to open and close the same.

13.'A hair waving apparatus comprising a heater unit including a hollowcasing formed of vulcanized rubber, the interior oi' which forms anelongated curling chamber, said casing having aligned openings atopposite ends of said chamber and substantially coaxially thereof, acurler spindle having ends adapted to'be received in Vsaid* openingswhereby it will be supported' substantially coaxially within saidchamber. said casing being divided-longitudinally of the curling chamberand substantially centrally of the openings at one side thereof to forma pair of opposed clamping lips, a frame embracing said casing andincluding a pair of rigid side sections articulately connected, saidside sections being connected with said casing at said clamping lips,and spring means associated with said side sections constantly tendingto urge said clamping lips toward each other.

14. A hair waving apparatus comprising a heater unit including a hollowcasingthe interior of which forms a charging chamber and a curlingchamber lying side by side in parallelism and in direct communication,said casing being divided longitudinally of the curling chamber to forma pair of opposed clamping lips at one side of said chamber which may bespread apart to open the curling chamber for the insertion of a curlerspindle, said casing being formed of resilient material, a pair ofarticulately connected rigid jaw members embracing saidcasing andconnected thereto at said lips and normally urging said lips toward eachother.

15. A hair waving apparatus comprising a. heater unit including a hollowcasing, the interior of which forms a curling chamber, said casinghaving aligned openings at opposite ends of said chamber andSubstantially centrally thereof, and a curler spindle having endsadapted to be yieldingly gripped in said openings whereby the divisionmay be spread apart to enable in-y sertion of said curler spindle, apair of articulately connected rigid jaw members embracing said casingand connected therewith at opposite sides of said division thereoftoopen and close the same. i

l'l. A hair waving apparatus'comprising a heater unit including a hollowcasing, the interior of which forms a charging chamber and a curlingchamber lying side by side in parallelism and in direct communication,said casing being divided longitudinally of the curling chamber to forma pair of opposed clamping lips at one side oi said chamber which may bespread apart to open the curling chamber for the insertionoi a curlerspindle, a pair of articulately connected rigid members embracing saidcasing and connected thereto at said `lips and normally urging said lipstoward each other, means for charging said charging chamber withmoisture, and means for generating heat within the interior of saidcasing.

18. A hair waving apparatus comprising a heater unit including a hollowcasing, the interior ot which forms `a curling chamber, said casinghaving aligned openings at opposite ends oi' said chamber andsubstantially centrally thereof, and a curler spindle having endsadapted to be received in said openings whereby it will be supportedcoaxially within said chamber, and a heating element disposed within thecasing.

19. A hair waving apparatus comprising a heater unit including a hollowcasing, the interior of which :forms a charging chamber and a curlingchamber lying side by side in parallelism and in direct communication,said casing being divided longitudinally of the curling chamber to forma pair or opposed clamping lips at one side of said chamber which may bespread apart to open the curling chamber for the insertion of a curlerspindle, a pair of articulately connected rigid members embracing saidcasing .and connected thereto at said lips and normally urging said lipstoward each other, a moisture absorbent charging cartridge iltting saidcharging chamber, and.means for generating heat within said casing.

20. A hair waving apparatus comprising a heater unit including a hollowcasing, the interior of which casing forms a charging chamber and acurling chamber lying side by side in parallelism and in directcommunication, said casing having aligned openings at opposite ends ofthe curling chamber, a curler spindle having ends adapted to be receivedin said openings whereby the curler will be supported substantiallycoaxially within said curling chamber, a moisture charging cartridgeremovably fitting said charging chamber, and means for generating heatwithin the interi'or of said casing.

2l. A hair waving apparatus comprising a heater unit including a hollowcasing, the interor of which forms an elongated charging chamber and anelongated curling chamber arranged side by side in parallelism and indirect communication, said casing having aligned openings in its endssubstantially coaxially of said curling chamber, a curler spindle havingends adapted to be yieldingly gripped in said openings whereby it willbe supported coaxially within said curling chamber, said casing beingdivided longitudinally oi' the curling chamber at the side thereofopposite the charging chamber `forming a pair of clamping lips which maybe spread apart to permit insertion of said curler spindle, a moisturecharging cartridge removably fitting said charging chamber, and meansfor generating heat within the interior of said casing. 22. A hairwaving apparatus comprising a heater unit including a hollow casing, thein terior of which forms a charging chamber and a curling chamber lyingside by side in parallelism and in direct communication, said casingbeing divided longitudinally of the curling chamber to form a pair ofopposed lips at one side of said casing which may be spread apart toopen the curling chamber, a pair of articulately connected membersconnected to said casing andnormally urging said lips toward each otherbut capable of operation to spread said lips apart to open the curlingchamber, an exothermic cartridge capable of insertion into said chargingchamber between said lips and through said curling chamber, and a curlerspindle for insertion between said lips substantially coaxially of thecurling chamber.

23. A hair waving apparatus comprising a heater unit including a hollowcasing, the interior of which forms a charging chamber and a curlingchamber lying side by side in parallelism and in direct communication,an exothermic cartridge adapted to be inserted into the charging chamberand removably retained therein, said casing being divided longitudinallyof the curling chamber at the side thereof opposite the charging chamberto form a pair of opposed lipsl at one side or said chamber which may bespread apart to open the curler chamber for the insertion of a curlerspindle, a pair of artlculately connected rigid members connected withsaid casing and normally urging said lips toward each other but capableof operation to spread said lips apart to open the curling chamber.

RALPH M. KEELE.

